Restoration Essentials

 

This page is just some of the tools we find handy, in most cases we don't sell them.. just offering the advice on tried and true tools!

 

Starstuk ACR

This is an absolutely amazing adhesive remover. Ever had trouble getting the glue off your tron shroud or stripping the sticky off a control panel to replace the overlay? Spray this stuff on, scrub a little bit with a scotchbrite pad or wipe with a paper towel and rinse. Really, it's that easy.

This product is usually found in cabinet shops or online at stores like Woodcraft.

Greased Lightning

Best stuff ever for cleaning original CPO's and sideart. Very mild, but strong. Spray your CPO down with this, let it sit a second then scrub just a little bit with a wet scotchbrite pad and you'll be amazed the detail that cleans right up. Also good for taking nicotine stains off atari sideart. Be careful though, some companies used cheaper inks that do not hold up to this product, Stern's Frenzy for example.

3M Scotchbrite Pads

For general purpose cleaning and scrubbing these are essential.

Micromesh Discs

For fixing scratched up, painted, or otherwise dull and damaged plexiglas parts found on games such as Marquees. These pads fit typical circular sanders and go up to 12000 grit! Makes short work of getting a showroom shine on your plastics again. These pads are available right here on Gamestencils.com.

CitrusStrip

The best all around stripper for game restoration anywhere. Very safe, easy to use and pretty fast acting. Generally won't harm arcade artwork! I use this one regularly to save painted over games like Williams machines.

Plastic Putty Knife

Anytime you plan on scraping on your game NEVER use metal scrapers, always use plastic. Cheap and much less likely to damage any artwork hiding underneath!

Goof Off

A touch more potent than the other cleaners on this page, Goof Off is great for removing spray paint from parts. NEVER use this stuff around plastic or you'll get a nasty white haze that you'll have to buy a set of our polishing pads to get rid of :)

Hot Glue Gun

For stuff that just won't stay in place, don't use nails, use Hot Glue. Tmolding channels often get too wide to hold the tmolding anymore but a shot of hot glue in the channel as you press the molding in will hold it nicely.

Denatured Alcohol

Whenever you are applying new art you always want to get rid of any old residues and body oils left over from cleaning. A nice wipedown with Denatured Alcohol will do this for you.

Krylon Triple Thick

An essential to stop artwork flaking. To use this, put a VERY light coat on first, then slightly heavier for 3 coats total applied to the printed art itself.

Novus

For plastic cleaning and general polishing Novus is an essential. Also used for cleaning and polishing pinball playfields and parts. This is a 3 part system.

Magic Erasers

Many restorers use these to clean just about everything. Magic erasers behave like 1200 grit sandpaper essentially. They sand off a very very thin layer of hopefully dirt :) Use this product with care and respect and it will work wonders.

Brasso

This classic polish for metal works great on arcade game parts too. Combined with a Scotchbrite pad you can clean lightly oxidized metals.

Steel Wool

A simple thing like steel wool can shine up rusted metal like that found on steering wheels and coin drops in coin doors.

Evercoat

For those really tiny details and a near plastic like finish use Evercoat Metal Glaze. Works just like bondo but is much creamier and can level gaps such as edges on vinyl or light scratches in sides.

Bondo

Body filler is a long time favorite for game cabinet restoration. A great way to rebuild corners or fix major flaws. Be sure to take proper precautions wearing a respirator and dust control with this product!